Two weeks ago, in a post about Olive Oil and La Cucina Italiana, we left off daydreaming about all the wonderful ways olive oil is used in Italian cooking. But good food and reveries aside, there are some basic facts about olive that will help you make the best of that freshly pressed oil you’ve just brought home from the frantoio. And with so many different olive oils to choose from at the store, how do you choose the best one? Once you’ve brought it home, how should to store it to keep it fresh from the first to the last drop? Read on to learn some handy olive oil tips.

Types of Olive Oil
With all of its health benefits, olive oil has received a great deal of press in recent years, and many know already that Extra-virgin Olive Oil (Olio Extravergine di Oliva) offers best quality, flavors and nutrients. To be labeled Extra-virgin, the olive oil must be produced in what is termed a “cold press” where heat during pressing doesn’t raise above 80° F (27°C). Acidity levels also determine the quality of the oil. Extra-virgin oils must have an acidity level lower than 1%. Oils with an acidity level between 1-2% with a nice flavor and color are often labeled as Virgin Olive Oil (Olio Vergine di Oliva). Oils with acidity levels between 2-3.3% are labeled Ordinary Virgin Oil (Olio di Oliva Vergine Corrente), and are often used for frying or cooking where the flavor of the oil is not as important. Any olive oils produced with acidity levels over 3.3% are termed Olio Lampante (named because it used to be used to light lamps!) and are not used for cooking. Nothing is wasted during olive pressing, and what remains of the olive pulp after pressing, called sansa, is often burned for fuel or can be sold to olive refineries that use chemical solvents to extract even more oil. The oil produced by this method is labeled Olio di Sansa in Italy and it is a much lower quality product, often lacking in flavor.

A good olive oil flavor depends not only on the acidity and production methods, but also on the type of olives used and on the particular location and seasonal climate where they are grown. Some of Italy’s regions are geographically quite diverse, which means that oils produced in the same region near the sea can differ significantly from those produced in more mountainous areas with cooler temperatures. Colors and flavors of oils vary from dark green to light golden and strong and pungent to delicate and fruity. For example, the fine oils made with the local Dritta olives in the provinces of Pescara and Teramo in the Abruzzo region are known for their rich and fruity aroma, while those from the neighboring Molise region made with the local Gentile di Larino olives offer a delicate flavor with a slight aftertaste of almonds. Heading further south, olive oil from Puglia and Calabria can be quite peppery with an intense aroma perfectly complementing the spicy local dishes. This range and variety of flavors is what makes sampling olive oil from the top of the boot to the toe such an exciting culinary adventure.

Buying and Storing Olive Oil
The first thing to keep in mind when selecting an olive oil is to remember that it is a delicate product and must be packaged and stored carefully. Olive oil does not improve with age as wine does, and it is best used within a year after production. Take the time to check for a date while shopping and fresher flavors will be your reward. Like any fat, olive oil can become rancid or loose its flavor and health benefits if it is not stored properly. The two main enemies of olive oil are light and heat. Look for olive oil packaged in tins or tinted bottles rather than clear ones, and remember never to store your olive oil in a sunny spot! The ideal temperature for olive oil is between 58-64° F (14-18° C), so be sure not to store it next to your stove as the heat can quickly change the oil’s quality. Too cold is also no good, so get that olive out of the refrigerator!

Olive oil easily absorbs aromas, making it an ideal base for perfumes and for aromatic oils, such as those commonly made in Italy like chili pepper oil, rosemary oil and citrus oils. However, this also means that olive oil quickly absorbs bad odors as well. Be sure to store your oil in a container that has been thoroughly cleaned and dried, and keep it away from strong smells.

Olive Oil Vocabulary
The following list will help you brush up on your olive oil vocabulary and help you find the best olive oil during your travels in Italy.

Olio di oliva – Olive oil
Olio extravergine di oliva – Extra-virgin olive oil
Olio vergine di oliva – Virgin olive oil
Olio di oliva vergine corrente – Ordinary or plain olive oil
Olio lampante – “Lampante” olive oil
La raccolta – Harvest
Brucatura – Harvesting of only the ripe olives from the tree by hand
Pettinatura – Harvesting of olives using hand held rakes
Bacchiatura – Harvesting of olives by beating the branches with poles
Il frantoio – Olive mill or press
Olio nuovo – Freshly pressed oil
Sansa – Olive pulp left after pressing

Photo Courtesy of “SteffanyF!” at Flickr

Italy is known worldwide for its diverse cooking traditions. Varying from region to region as you travel from the top of the boot to the toe, you’ll find unique specialties to try in each place you stop along the way. However, there are a few staples that bind together these countless local and regional dishes that form what we call La Cucina Italiana, one of the most fundamental elements being extra virgin olive oil. Without “EVOO” any Italian kitchen (including Rachael Ray’s!) would come to a grinding halt. This love of olive oil is what drives Italy’s Olive Culture, and the hard work of the yearly Olive Harvest and Pressing that we’ve talked about over the past few weeks here on The italyMONDO! Blog. But now that Italy’s fresh oils are coming off the (cold) presses, how should you use it in your kitchen?

No matter where you travel in Italy today, you will find olive oil an important part of Italian cooking. But it wasn’t all that long ago that its popular use was limited mostly to the central and southern regions of Italy, as well as the islands of Sicily and Sardinia, where the warmer climate offered the ideal growing environment for olive trees. (Even today the southern regions of Puglia and Calabria are Italy’s top olive oil producers). The northern regions of Italy instead depended more on butter for their cooking fat, developing a dairy culture as opposed to the southern olive culture. You’ll actually find this geographic and gastronomical anomaly reflected in two of the simplest dishes still served in the two regions. In the north you’ll find pasta al burro (pasta with butter) while in the south it will be pasta all’ aglio e olio (pasta with garlic and oil). The staples of millions of peasants for centuries, these were the simplest, quickest and most economical dishes that could be made with the ingredients available, and ironically is now often served in many of the best restaurants in the country.

Olive oil is used in countless ways in southern Italian cooking, and it is safe to say that without it you won’t go far past the antipasto without it. It is the base for almost every pasta sauce, and is used for frying all types of vegetables as well as those tasty arancini (rice balls) and polpette (meatballs) that nonna used to make. It is drizzled over salads, both raw and roasted vegetables as well as fish and meats. You will even find it used to preserve tuna and anchovies! A piping hot dish of pasta e fagioli (pasta with beans) wouldn’t be complete without a little crude olive oil drizzled over the top. Even better, add some peperoncino (chili pepper) flakes to the oil and let the spicy flavors blend together, creating a popular southern Italian condiment often simply known as “forte” (strong). Anyone who has visited the region of Calabria can attest to the merits of the name!

Olive oil is used in countless ways in southern Italian cooking, and it is safe to say that without it you won’t go far past the antipasto without it. It is the base for almost every pasta sauce, and is used for frying all types of vegetables as well as those tasty arancini (rice balls) and polpette (meatballs) that nonna used to make.

One of the most important things to keep in mind when cooking with olive oil is to remember that a particular oil might not be suitable for every recipe you’re cooking up. Just as a great bottle of Chianti won’t be the perfect accompaniment for every dish, you must carefully select your olive oil to make the most of your Italian meal. The decision is difficult, though, as olive oils come in a variety of colors and flavors and not one can be described as “the best.” The decision depends more upon your personal taste and how the oil will be used. A light olive oil with a subtle flavor won’t overpower the delicate baked fish dish, and a spicier or even pleasantly bitter oil might be the perfect finishing touch for your salad. If possible, taste your olive oil before buying to see if it has a good aroma and flavor and aftertaste that appeals to you. At home, experiment with different combinations of new oils, keeping in mind that you might have more than one in the house for different types of cooking.

While a bottle of artisan-made olive oil may be more expensive than the large, industrial-made varieties, one taste of the fresh flavors will quickly convert you. Drizzled over fresh salads, bread, pasta (and just about everything else!), olive oil is truly an essential ingredient of Italian cooking and one worth experiencing at its best. Visit The italyMONDO! Blog again next Friday for more tips on buying and storing your olive oil, and a handy olive oil vocabulary list so you’ll be ready to discover the freshest olio d’oliva during your travels in Italy.

Photo Courtesy of “Chez Pim” at Flickr

The Italian countryside in autumn is a picturesque scene of rolling hillsides dotted with olive trees, their branches full of ripe olives shining in the Mediterranean sun. Imagining this vista, who isn’t tempted to pluck one of these enticing little olives off the tree and give it a taste? After all, they look so much like the cured olives that make such delectable antipasti here in Italy. However, anyone who has given in to this temptation knows how the extreme bitterness of raw olives runs up and down the spine, making one’s face form unrepeatable contortions. (Much to the amusement of any Italians who might be watching!) That is when you realize just how much of a marvel it is that, with only some hard work and know-how, these bitter little fruits can be turned into the rich, golden oil so important to La Cucina Italiana.

Last week we learned about La Raccolta – The Olive Harvest in Italy – and we left off as the olives were being rushed to the oleificio or frantoio, the two words you’ll see used in Italian to describe the many olive pressing mills scattered throughout the countryside. Once harvested, olives must be pressed as soon as possible – generally within 36 hours at most. That means that during this time of year olives mills from north to south run almost around the clock as one truck or ape (the small three-wheeled vehicle driven by many farmers and beloved by camera-wielding tourists) after another pulls up with their precious cargo.

Much like the different harvesting methods used across Italy, there are just as many different ways to press oil. From the ancient method of using millstones to today’s high tech machines that – from cleaning to pressing the olives – automatically complete every step, each process has its advocates for why it is the best. While there are several variations on the process, let’s walk through the traditional methods first.

The initial step is to prepare the olives for pressing by separating any stems and leaves and washing them. Once clean, the next step, called the frangitura, is where the olives – pits and all – are crushed until they form a brown paste. During the crushing, this paste is kneaded and generally heated ever so slightly so the oils will be released. The exact temperature of heating is a topic of great debate and often varies from one olive grower to the next, but the heat will never rise over 80ºF (27ºC)—the maximum temperature allowed during extraction to still consider the oil “cold pressed.” In the traditional stone ground method, large granite wheels slowly crush the olives as they rotate. In modern methods they are sometimes sliced with sharp blades instead of being crushed, but in many modern mills wheels are still often used—only now they are powered by a powerful engine instead of donkeys and oxen! The aromatic fragrance that arises as these fresh olives are crushed is the first taste an onlooker has of the fine olive oil to come.

Watching the freshly pressed oil drip out of the centrifuge in vivid shades of greens and golds is the moment of truth as this year’s labor and harvest can finally be tasted.

Once crushed, the next step is called the gramolatura, where the olive paste is spread out onto many circular mats made of a woven material, which are then stacked on top of one another and placed in a hydraulic press. As the olive paste is very slowly pressed, a reddish brown mixture of oil and water emerges from the press. This liquid produced from the estrazione (extraction) still doesn’t look like the luscious green and gold olive oils you would expect. To make the final product, this liquid is put in a centrifuge that separates the oil from the water. Watching the freshly pressed oil drip out of the centrifuge in vivid shades of greens and golds is the moment of truth as this year’s labor and harvest can finally be tasted. As you can imagine, to be in the frantoio and taste the “prima spremitura” – the first pressing – is a true delight!

Today modern mills often use an entirely mechanical method, which can combine some – if not all – of these steps into one continual cycle from washing to the final product. While not as romantic an image as the stone mills, the modern continuous cycle mechanical pressing offers many advantages. Each step takes place in a temperature controlled environment, and the stainless steel machines allow for easy sterilization and cleaning. This flexibility and control, as well as the fine olive oils produced, has made the continuous cycle process more and more popular over recent years.

Italians love their olive oil and take great pride in it as well. This is what makes the annual harvest and pressing of olives such a labor of love for so many. The job isn’t done just yet, though! Stop by next Friday for our final post in this series celebrating the olive as we talk about the finished product and the many ways this “liquid gold” is used in La Cucina Italiana.

Photo Courtesy of “Chris P.” at Flickr

One of the most exciting times of the year to travel through the Italian countryside is during the autumn olive harvest. The hillside olive groves—home only to sheep and goats during much of the year—come alive with activity as nets are spread out under the trees and family and friends gather for the harvest. This yearly event is an ancient tradition in Italy, even older than the many century-old olive trees you may encounter, and the chance to see it with your own eyes offers a moving connection to the past. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll even be able to sample some of the season’s freshly pressed olive oil!

The production of olive oil—from harvesting by hand to pressing—is a labor intensive and delicate process. Beginning in October and November, Italians patiently and passionately begin the olive raccolta (harvest). To create the highest quality olive oil, it is important to time the harvest perfectly. Olives begin to ripen in the crisp autumn air, and the best time to harvest is just when they are beginning to change colors from green to black. This is when they contain the most high quality oil and are most valuable.

Yet olives don’t mature at the same time—sometimes not even on the same tree. Since many small, family-run olive farms can’t afford the expense of harvesting multiple times, the trick is choosing the moment when the largest amounts of olives are mature. In the past, olives were often left to mature until they began to fall to the ground. This caused the harvest to be pushed off until the winter and sometimes early spring. It’s now known that this method doesn’t produce the highest quality of oils, and in this case it turns out that man is actually better than nature when it comes to deciding when the harvest begins.

Although olive producers know that the best oils come from picking early in the season, each swears by their own harvesting method—a process which plays an important role in the quality of the olive oil they produce. There are two main techniques for harvesting olives; either the traditional harvest by hand picking, or using newer mechanical methods. Both have their advocates, but in the end it is Italy’s rough terrain that usually decides. Using the “tree-shaking” machinery and power brushes is only possible on level ground where the trees are adequately spaced apart. In the mountainous mezzogiorno—the term used to describe Southern Italy—this is rarely the case! The rocky, terraced hillsides of many olive groves in southern regions such as Abruzzo, Calabria and Sicily has ensured that manual harvesting remains the most common method through much of the south—and even in the more industrialized north as well.

The rocky, terraced hillsides of many olive groves in southern regions such as Abruzzo, Calabria and Sicily has ensured that manual harvesting remains the most common method through much of the southern Italy.

Olives are removed from the trees using different methods, depending on the size of the tree and the lie of the land. The ideal harvesting method is to hand pick the ripe olives from the trees, which is an intensely physical job from beginning to end. Nets are carefully spread under the trees, and the olives are stripped from the trees in a number a ways, including by hands, with special rakes or with long sticks. Hand picking the ripe olives, called brucatura, is the simplest, but most time consuming, method. More often olives are harvested following the pettinatura method, where olives are stripped from the branches using bare or gloved hands and special rakes. For tall trees, long sticks or canes are used to beat the branches until all the olives have fallen into the nets below, a method that the Italians call bacchiatura.

Where mechanical harvesting is possible, tractors are used to power rotating brushes that are used to carefully strip the olives from the trees into the nets waiting below. Also becoming popular are “tree-shaking” machines that grabs onto the truck of the tree and literally shakes the ripest olives right off their branches! However, no matter the method, harvesting always continues until the trees have been stripped of their prized fruits.

But the work isn’t over yet. Once harvested, the olives are packed into airy harvest trays and must be quickly taken to the frantoio, or the olive pressing mill, within 36 hours after they’re picked. The sooner the better, because once picked heat and humidity can cause molds to form easily, contaminating the oil’s delicate flavor.

So now that the olives are off to the presses all across Italy, be sure to stop by The italyMONDO! Blog next Friday to learn all about the frantoio and the production of Italy’s fine olio d’oliva.

Buona Raccolta!

Photo Courtesy of “scanavacca1986” at Flickr

All across the Italian countryside, you’ll find that the olive tree—that ancient symbol of abundance, longevity and peace—is just as much an integral part of the landscape as its luscious oils are a part of La Cucina Italiana. Dotting the hillsides in picturesque groves or popping up unexpectedly alongside a mountain road, the distinctive silvery green leaves and the large–gnarled forms are indelible symbols of Italian culture.

As la vendemmia (wine harvest) winds down, October marks the beginning of the olive harvest season in Italy, which lasts through the end of December and stretches as late as February in some regions. Olive groves are easy to spot this time of year. The first sign of harvest is the web of nets that are spread out under the trees to collect the olives as they begin to be gathered. Harvesting is still routinely done by hand, as it has been for centuries, and is a yearly ritual often as old as the trees themselves.

The olive culture has deep roots throughout the Mediterranean. Since ancient times the olive tree has been a symbol of wisdom, purification, glory and peace—and has been used for medicine, beauty and religious practices as well as in the kitchen. In ancient Greece, olive branches and oil were offered to deities, important figures and the deceased in elaborate rituals. The precious oils anointed the skins of athletes and the noblest heads of antiquity, and the branches crowned the victorious of both athletic games and wars.

Not native to the Italian peninsula, it was the Greeks who introduced the olive tree to Italy when southern Italy and Sicily were thriving parts of the Magna Graecia. The Romans were quick to recognize the virtues of olives, and became massive producers and consumers of olive oil. The Greek writer Homer referred to olive oil as “liquid gold,” and the Romans capitalized on it by turning Rome into an important center of oil trade. By the 1st century AD, the Roman historian Pliny wrote that Italy’s olive oil was the best in the Mediterranean. Today Italy is still the world leader in the production of top quality olive oil.

The Greek writer Homer referred to olive oil as “liquid gold,” and the Romans capitalized on it by turning Rome into an important center of oil trade.

Nowadays, olives are grown throughout the length of Italy, from Liguria and Tuscany, down through Abruzzo and Molise, and into southern regions of Campania, Basilicata, Puglia and Sicily. There are countless varieties of olives that grow throughout Italy, with each of the 20 regions having a specific climate suitable for numerous different cultivars. Olive trees are evergreen and they can live for hundreds or even thousands of years, growing wonderfully twisted and gnarled with time. The olives are either green or black, but the black varieties are green until they begin to change color as they ripen.

The beginning of the olive harvest in the autumn means that this season’s fresh, aromatic oils will soon be available throughout Italy. Whether drizzled over bruschetta, a salad, or warm pasta dishes (and that’s just the beginning!), olive oil is the ultimate symbol of La Cucina Italiana. Now that the olive harvest is taking place all over Italy, stop by The ItalyMONDO! Blog on the Friday’s to come to learn more about la raccolta (the olive harvest) and il frantoio (oil pressing mills)–and to savor the many flavors of Italy’s olio d’oliva.

Photo Courtesy of “Carnaval King 08” at Flickr

The Italian love affair with food is famous around the world. From simple and fresh ingredients, to regional variations and family traditions, food is an indelible part of the Italian culture. One visit to a crowded Italian market with the shouts of the sellers and stalls overflowing with an abundance of colorful fresh foods and you’ll understand that Italian’s are not just passionate about their food, but they are also immensely proud of their culinary heritage and traditions as well. It’s no wonder why Italians say that there are three important things that make up la dolce vita: God, Family and Food. (Although no one agrees on the order!) Family and food are intricately entwined in the Italian culture, where the gathering of family after mass for Sunday pranzo is a well–loved weekly tradition for both Italians and Italian Americans alike.

Yet from the peaks of the Alps to the beaches of Sicily—and everywhere in between—the country’s cooking traditions reflect a wonderful regional diversity that make traveling anywhere in Italy a gastronomic delight. From one town to another—and even one family’s kitchen to another—cooking methods and dishes change dramatically along with the local specialties grown or produced in the area. Sure there’s pasta and pizza everywhere, but you’ll find it prepared in so many different ways that it’s impossible to choose just one favorite dish.

However, no matter where your travels take you in Italy, there are two essential universal qualities that define Italian cooking—simplicity and freshness. Here simplicity reigns in daily cooking. With a few fresh tomatoes and basil leaves plucked from the garden you can have a tasty and simple pasta dish ready in minutes. Italians shop daily for the freshest foods at local butchers, small fruit and vegetable shops, cheese makers and more. While rather modest refrigerators and kitchens might be the practical reason behind this, Italians wouldn’t have it any other way. Shopping daily for food not only ensures the freshest ingredients, but also serves as a form of socializing—especially in the small villages of Southern Italy. There the daily shopping trip to fare la spesa is like a ritual for many Italians. It’s the chance to chat with friends and neighbors, discuss lunch and dinner plans, and perhaps even to hear the latest news and gossip around town. (The latter perhaps being most important to many!) Food is a part of Italian social and cultural traditions long before it even makes it into the home and onto to the table.

For Italian Americans, the passion for cooking has remained an equally fundamental aspect of life. “La Cucina Italiana” represents their roots, traditions, and culture.

For Italian Americans, the passion for cooking has remained an equally fundamental aspect of life. La cucina italiana represents their roots, traditions, and culture. It provides a connection back to the past, and this continuity ensures that family traditions and recipes will continue to the passed down from generation to generation just like in the “Old Country.” “Nonna’s cooking” may have become “Grandma’s cooking” in many households over time, but the warm scents of the kitchen filling the house, the gathering of family around the table, and the persistence of family traditions has continued just the same as it was a century ago when their ancestors left everything for a new life in America—and just the same as it is in Italy today.

The simplicity, freshness and deeply embedded traditions are why Italian foods are loved around the world. My name is Laura, and I’ll be your guide and companion as together we explore the pleasures of Italian food—from region to region, town to town, and season to season. Italy is rich in culinary traditions, and I look forward to discovering and sharing them with you every Friday here on The italyMONDO! Blog. So pull up a chair and be prepared to be tempted, enticed and inspired by the wonderful foods of Italy—and Buon Appetito!

In Italy, the beginning of the autumn season is more than just a drop in temperatures, the changing colors of the landscape, or the reappearance of warm sweaters and scarves in our wardrobes. Here, where regional cooking is still very much connected to the land, the change of season is also evident in the markets and on the kitchen tables across Italy. Instructions on how to live La Dolce Vita can often be found within the words of Italian proverbs, and one enjoyable proverbio italiano reminds us that it’s always best to eat what is in season: “Uva o melone, ma ognuno alla sua stagione” – Grapes or melon, but each one in its own season. As we now bid farewell to summer, with its fresh melons and sweet fruits, the abundance of Italy’s autumn foods are just waiting to be discovered.

Autumn arrives across Italy with the grape harvest (la vendemmia), when the heavy clusters of grapes warmed in the summer sun are carefully cut from the vines and wineries burst to life. Along the rolling hills and terraces, the vines are already heralding the change of season with their many hues of yellows and reds. Wine will be made again this fall, and while this year’s vintage ages you can ponder Italy’s wine traditions while enjoying a few plump grapes from one of the clusters – called a grappolo d’uva – that appear in markets across Italy this time of year. (You can even stop on almost any country road and cut a grappolo or two, but you didn’t hear that from us!)

But ripening grapes aren’t the only treat one will find in Italy during the fall. October is also the month of castagne (chestnuts) in Italy, and nothing says autunno more than the warm scent of roasting chestnuts. Right now the chestnuts are maturing in their prickly burrs, and will soon coat Italy’s country roads, ready to be collected. However, chestnuts aren’t just for “roasting on the open fire,” and there is no better place to experience firsthand their wide use than by visiting one of the many sagre, or food festivals, dedicated to this humble nut. The little village of Cusano Mutri in Campania’s province of Benevento puts on one of the area’s biggest events of the autumn called the Sagra delle Castagne. Taking place from October 23rd to 26th, Cusano’s famous sagra is more than just chestnuts, it’s a weekend long celebration visited by tens of thousands of people from throughout southern Italy. Events include live music, open–air restaurants and pizzerie, cultural exhibits, artisan vendors – including Cusano’s noted ceramic artists – and, of course, roasted chestnuts! If you can’t make it to Cusano Mutri this year, you’ll find that many small towns across Italy, including Rossiglione in Liguria, Scala on Campania’s Amalfi Coast, and Soriano nel Cimino in Lazio, host chestnut festivals during the month.

An Italian Proverb…

Uva o melone, ma ognuno alla sua stagione

Starting in October, Italy’s many varieties of mushrooms also take the culinary spotlight. In the woods of the Molise and Abruzzo regions, trifolai (truffle hunters) head out during the cool days with their dogs in search of one of Italy’s gastronomic treasures – the white truffle. Called “white diamonds” due to their prized value, the white truffles found in these mountainous regions are only one of the varieties you will come across this time of year in Italy. Meanwhile, in the neighboring regions of Campania and Le Marche as well as many other regions, the search is on for wild porcini mushrooms. Dishes made with truffles and porcini are plentiful, especially in towns surrounded by chestnut forests where the mushrooms typically grow.

Fall is a heavenly time for food lovers to travel in Italy. Not only are the markets full of these autumn specialties, but from northern Italy to the tip of the boot you will discover countless sagre dedicated to every type of mushroom, nut and fresh autumn crop imaginable. There is no better way to experience regional Italian cuisine than with a good dose of culture and fun that you’ll enjoy at one of these sagre. As you turn your calendars over to October, throw on a sweater, wrap a scarf around your neck and head out to Italy’s markets and food festivals to find some of the delights of autumn.