For this week’s segment of Wednesday Wines we will be tasting wines hailing from the gorgeous island of Sardegna (Sardinia). Noble reds and whites, as well as rosés and sweet dessert wines, are the pride of the “Emerald Isle.”

The wine routes of this island lead to fantastic landscapes where viticulture has been in existence since pre-Roman times, a tradition that began with the people of the nuraghi and that is still continued after three millennia. A wine tour Sardegna takes the visitor on a fantastic journey of pleasures of the senses with the perfumes, flavors and the vibrant colors of the island.

Among the island’s most important red varieties are Cannonau, a relative of the Spanish Granacha, and Monica, which is also of Spanish origin. There is a bit of controversy these days about the origins of Cannonau, however. It was once thought as common knowledge that the Spanish brought it to Sardegna, but now experts are more prone to say the grape is indigenous to the island, and that the Spanish took it back with them after they invaded Sardegna in the 13th century.

Vineyards in the rugged eastern coastal range around Nuoro are noted for their rich and versatile Cannonau di Sardegna, which pairs beautifully with local meat dishes like Porceddu, a charcoal grilled piglet, as well as various sausage or lamb recipes. Mature Cannonau is opaque, very dark red–almost black–and exhibits concentrated ripe red forest fruits, tobacco, spices, and cigar box on the nose.

Vermentino is the most famous wine made from the late ripening white Vermentino grape, and is responsible for the prestigious DOCG Vermentino di Gallura and Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, which are produced in the province of Olbia in the north end of the island. Vermentino grapes are thought to be related to the Malvasia variety and to have been brought to Italy in the 15th century during the period of Spanish domination. Vermentino—crisp, acidic grapes with herbal hints—are often grown on slopes facing the sea where they can benefit from the additional reflected light and iodine-rich air.

With its delicate aromas of fruit and hint of almonds in the finish, Vermentino is a wine to be enjoyed young. In addition to being the perfect complement to all kinds of seafood recipes—from simple steamed shrimp to elaborate seafood platters with vegetables and deep-sea grouper or swordfish—this wine is delicious as an exciting aperitivo for all occasions.

In Gallura, the Moscato and Nebbiolo grapes thrive as well. The spumante-dolce version of the Moscato di Tempio DOC is among the most delicate and appreciated dessert wines produced on the island, and the red Nebbiolo—known as Nebbiolo di Luras—has recently met with a widespread success among wine lovers.

Semidano is a white table wine, ideal with primi piatti (first courses), fish soups, and lean meat ragùs. It also performs nicely as a sparkling wine. Semidano wine pairs nicely with spicy foods, poultry and pork – and is perfect with lobster and pasta with clams.

Nuragus di Cagliari DOC is an ancient Phoenician varietal found in southern Sardegna. It yields light and tart wines that are enjoyed as an apertivo, or with light seafood meals on the beach.

The Tuscan Vernaccia vine has many clone varieties, but is unrelated to some Italian vines known by the same name, such as the Sardinian varieties used in Vernaccia di Oristano. This is an ancient, aging, golden yellow white wine that can be compared to the best Jerez wines and Sherries. It is a perfect meditation/conversation wine that can be paired with the most refined of the traditional island pastries.

A rising star among Sardinian wines is Carignano del Sulcis, a red or rosé from the southwest that was probably imported in ancient times by the French. It is a precious wine that confirms the connection between the ancient and the modern achieved by Sardinian oenology. It is excellent with hearty pastas and soups, roasted meat, and aged cheese. Another interesting wine among the reds is the moderately sweet Girò di Cagliari, and the red and rosé Mandrolisai DOC made in the area around the center of Sorgono.

Stay tuned for next week’s appointment with the vigorous wines of Calabria, the long and narrow peninsula that forms the toe of of Italy’s “Boot.” In ancient times Calabria was called Oenotria, which translates from Latin to “Land of Wine” – making it fitting to be our first stop mainland before we travel up the Italian coast to explore each region’s wines one-by-one!

Salute!

Would you like to explore the seemingly untouched island of Sardegna on a vacation of a lifetime – and even get the chance to find your long-lost family still living in Italy as well? Contact us today and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian (and Sardinian!) family tree, help you become a Dual Italian-American Citizen, and so much more!

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Tears of lava, limestone plains swept by the wind, sunny lands shaded of bronze and gold. A sea, home to dolphins and swordfish, perennially the color of sapphire. A people of unmeasured hospitality and creativity. All this says welcome to Sicilia, l’Isola del Sole!

Sicily’s warm, dry climate, sloping hillsides, and rocky soil make it ideal for growing grapes – on par with California’s Napa Valley, for example. But while New World vineyards like Napa, Australia and Chile have become famous for producing fine, world-class wines, Sicily’s 4,000-year-old tradition of bulk winemaking has caused oenophiles to turn up their noses.

…Until now.

A new generation of Sicilian winemakers is winning worldwide acclaim for excellent medium-priced and premium wines. A new breed is securing accolades around the world. This transformation has come about thanks to changes in viticulture techniques and winemaking expertise. While whites have led the way so far, reds are now racing up the quality curve. Until recently, Sicilian reds were overly heavy and alcohol-loaded.

One usually associates fine wines with eastern Sicily and the areas near Mount Etna, but many new wineries have sprung up across the entire island. Sicilian viticulture is not just varietals (wines made from a single specified variety of grape). Sicily’s vintage wines are a magical creation, and many of the island’s traditional wines and spirits are famous far beyond its dazzling shores. Several boast DOC and DOCG designations. Sicily has its own table and dessert wines, and a number of regional liqueurs. Let’s take a look at them.

Catarratto Bianco is the island’s most-planted white wine grape. It thrives in the Trapani area, as well as in the volcanic Eolian Isles, where it is commonly called Castellaro. Other noteworthy Sicilian whites are Carricante, Contessa Entellina, Corinto, Grecanico, Grillo, Inzolia, (also known as Insolia or Ansonica), and Bianco d’Alcamo, made mainly in the Palermo and Trapani provinces.

Sicily’s warm, dry climate, sloping hillsides, and rocky soil make it ideal for growing grapes – on par with California’s Napa Valley, for example.

Nero d’Avola is a noble Sicilian wine with a dense ruby-red color. Perhaps the most important indigenous red wine grape in Sicily. Nero d’Avola is named after the town of Avola in the far south end of Sicilia and its wines are compared to New World Shirazes with their notorious sweet tannins and plum or peppery flavors. The enthralling bouquet of Nero d’Avola recalls chocolate and black cherry, hints of violets with a light trace of tobacco at the close. It is a wine with a big structure and a remarkable personality, and in recent years has been becoming quite chic among wine-lovers in America.

More interesting Sicilian reds are: Gaglioppo, Frappato, Nerello Cappuccio or Mantellato, Nerello Mascalese, and Perricone, whose alternative name is Pignatello. Il Vino Siciliano, in both its skin colors, pairs perfectly with the fresh seafood and specialties the island so lavishly offers.

Sicily is also famed for its sweet dessert wines and liqueurs, ranging from the world-known Marsalav, to the interesting Zibibbo. It is a very old process, and Zibibbo, though not the direct precursor of Marsala, derives from a formula known in the Middle Ages. It is typically slightly lower in alcohol than Marsala and sometimes more robust. The Zibibbo grape is similar to Moscato, and the wine known as Moscato di Pantelleria Naturale is made mostly from Zibibbo grapes.

Moscato itself is difficult to describe. It comes from the Muscat grape, of course, or from the sub-variety known locally as Moscatello. Some fine whites can be made from Muscat, but in Sicily and the nearby Eolian islands it is usually rendered as a golden or light amber dessert wine, sometimes fortified or even sparkling (spumante). Moscato and Moscato Passito are made by some distinguished wineries on the islands of Pantelleria and Lipari. The areas around Siracusa and Noto, in the eastern part of Sicily, also produce fine Moscato wines.

Malvasia is another white grape used to make a strong varietal that is golden to amber in color and slightly fortified. Bred from an older grape variety, Malvasia is grown in northeastern Sicily (near Messina) and on the island of Lipari, where it is used in the making of a wine somewhat similar to Moscato.

Meet me next week for yet another wine tasting tour in the southern Italy as we take a ferry over to Sardegna. Here we will be learning more about the vino of this stunning island, one of the most ancient areas of Italy.

Salute!

Would you like to travel the hills of Sicily as your ancestors once did – and even have the chance to find your Sicilian relatives still living there as well? Contact us today and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian (and Sicilian!) family tree or create a vacation of a lifetime with a custom Heritage Tour for you and your family!

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Naples is a city of unexpected art forms. The Neapolitan pizza is perfection. The graceful and exuberant language of gestures is on display at every street market, restaurant and café. And anyone who has experienced the thrill and challenge of driving in this beautiful city knows that even driving is an art form. (Finding a parking spot can take a lifetime of practice!) But there’s another local art form you can’t miss when you’re walking through the lively and colorful streets of Naples – I Dolci (the desserts).

With a pasticceria or café located around just about every corner, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to experience the Neapolitan’s proudly prepared cakes, pastries and desserts. The problem, however, is knowing where to start! You simply must try the heavenly Sfogliatella. The pastry, with its crisp, flaky shell and sweet ricotta cheese filling, is undeniably a Neapolitan classic. But the sfogliatella isn’t the only Neapolitan sweet treat that you should try when you visit Napoli, though. Babà, a rum-soaked sponge cake with a funny name that you’ll find in all sorts of tempting shapes and sizes, is sure to be a delicious experience.

The origin of the babà takes us back to the 18th century when Naples was ruled by the Bourbon King Ferdinand IV and his wife Maria Carolina, the sister of Queen Marie Antoinette of France. The French influence on the regional cuisine of Naples—at least that of the elite and wealthy classes—was pronounced during this period as French chefs became de rigueur. One of the French-influenced desserts to show up on Neapolitan tables was the babà.

The French influence on the regional cuisine of Naples—at least that of the elite and wealthy classes—was pronounced during this period as French chefs became de rigueur. One of the French-influenced desserts to show up on Neapolitan tables was the babà.

However, the story of this little Neapolitan cake is not over yet. First we have to travel from Paris to the court of King Stanislaw Leszczyński of Poland, where the rum-soaked cake was supposedly born. According to Neapolitan tradition, the cake was created when the King poured some rum over the top of a Polish cake he found too dry. The King’s new cake became an immediate success in Paris when Stanislaw’s daughter, Marie, married King Louis XV of France. From there the dessert made its way to Naples where it received a few finishing touches and became the Babà Napoletano (or Babà alla Napoletana) that we know today.

…Phew – that’s a lot of traveling for one little cake!

Traditionally the babà is baked in a round tin similar to a bundt pan, and before being served is doused with a mixture of water, sugar and rum. This is also the easiest and most common way the babà is made at home. In a pasticceria, you’ll also find babà in their traditional mushroom or chef’s hat shape. These are baked in individual tins and are soaked in the rum mixture after they cool from the oven.

And just when you think it can’t get any better, the Neapolitans know how to improve on perfection. For those who find the light, traditional babà not quite rich enough, be sure to try the cream or chocolate filled variations. Sometimes the babà is even covered with an apricot glaze and garnished with fresh fruit or cream, so keep your eye out for one of these over-the-top babà variations!

Traditions keep developing here in Campania, and another variation of the babà dessert has developed on the island of Capri and on the Amalfi Coast, where it is now common to soak the babà in the strong and flavorful limoncello liqueur produced in the area. A good idea is always a good idea, and the babà al limoncello has quickly become popular throughout Campania and Italy.

Now that you have two pastries to taste on your “must eat” list for Naples, stop by next week as we sample the Zeppole di San Giuseppe – yet another traditional Neapolitan dessert.

Would you like to walk the ancient streets of Naples as your ancestors once did – and even have the chance to uncover living relatives in the process? Contact us and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian family tree or create a vacation of a lifetime for you and your family!

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Welcome back to those of you who enjoyed our Introduction to Italy and its Wines on this blog some months back. As we jump back into our Wednesday’s weekly wine appointments, I look forward to sharing my love of Italian wines with you as we explore Italy from top to toe. So in the weeks to come, don’t forget to stop by each Wednesday to learn all about the Wines of Southern Italy!

Shall we begin?

Italy is the most diverse wine-growing region in the world. Each region not only has its own food variations, but also produces its own wine to suit. There are 900,000 vineyards registered in Italy – and nobody knows quite how many wines. That means there is a vineyard for every seven people!

This makes it difficult to give any definitive account of wine regions here, and indeed there are very few people who could claim to have a full knowledge of Italian wine. However, for the beginning enthusiast and those epicureans seeking some guidance in the vast expanse of the wine of Il Bel Paese, the task is often tackled by approaching the peninsula in sections. I will guide you through the southern wine territories first and, gradually working our way up the boot, we will cover Italian wines region-by-region – glass in hand.

This week we will be introducing italyMONDO! Blog readers and followers to the delightful wines of the south. We will be discovering wines hailing from the islands of Sicily and Sardegna, the continental regions of Calabria, Basilicata, Puglia in the former Magna Græcia, and then moving up to the plentiful vineyards of Campania before traveling to Molise, Abruzzo and Lazio. Come along as we take a wine-tasting tour of southern Italy’s wine country.

While they’’re not superstars like their Tuscan, Friuliani or Piemontese cousins, the wines of Italy’s southern regions are equally bold, full-bodied, and tremendously satisfying.

Southern Italy has been producing wine for over 4,000 years. Arabs and Phoenicians planted what may have been the first “foreign” vines in the southern part of the peninsula. Later, Greeks—and the Romans in their turn—recognized the potential of the slopes that gave them Falernum, Caecubum, Mamertinum and other heady wines that were praised by poets like Horace and Virgil. Many more outsiders left their marks on these Mediterranean shores, foremost the Spaniards, who dominated the southern portion of the peninsula until the Risorgimento in the nineteenth century and brought their own grapes into Sardegna, Sicily and other places centuries after the first settlers had begun cultivating the vine.

The misconception that the Mezzogiorno has a universally torrid climate overlooks the fact that much of the territory is temperate with parts that are positively chilly. Conditions depend on altitude and proximity to the Tyrrhenian, Ionian or Adriatic seas and their winds. Fine wines are made in warm places – the slopes of volcanoes, sunbathed islands, Puglia’s spectacular Salento peninsula, Sicily’s western coast and Sardegna’s Campidano plains. But many wines of scope come from higher, cooler places, like the hills around Avellino in Campania, Basilicata’s Vulture area, Sicily’s central highlands, Puglia’s interior plateau and even the below the snowcapped mountains of the Abruzzo and Molise. While they’re not superstars like their Tuscan, Friuliani or Piemontese cousins, the wines of Italy’s southern regions are equally bold, full-bodied, and tremendously satisfying.

We will begin our discovery of southern Italian wines next Wednesday by following the ancient Greeks’ council, who took huge pleasure in the wines of the magical island of Sicily.

Until next week… salute!

Would you like to taste wine from the same vines that your ancestors in southern Italian once used – and even have the chance to meet living relatives in the process? Contact us and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian family tree or create a vacation of a lifetime for you and your family – wine tours and all!

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Last Friday I tempted you with some of Italy’s Sweet Treats for Carnevale. But don’t worry if you missed the Carnival celebrations in bella Italia this year. Italy has an endless selection of delightful desserts you can enjoy any time of the year. Over the next few weeks we’ll be looking at the fun stories behind some of the most popular traditional Italian desserts. This week, let’s start with one that was originally prepared only for Carnevale—just like chiacchiere and castagnole are today—but has since become one of Italy’s most famous desserts. Known (and enjoyed!) around the world, we are—of course—talking about the divine cannoli siciliani (Sicilian Cannoli).

The Sicilians have used their unique and vibrant touch to create some of the most beautiful and extravagant desserts in Italy. But the king of all of the island’s delectable desserts is surely cannoli, crunchy fried pastry tubes open on each end and traditionally filled with sweet fresh ricotta cheese and a mixture of chocolate and candied fruit pieces. Although most people around the world—particularly in America—call a single tube “a cannoli,” only one of these treats is actually called a cannolo – a name that refers to the tube shape of the pastry. The linguistic corruption is easy to justify, though. After all, who can just eat only one!?!

The origin of cannoli is now covered by a haze. (Or is that powdered sugar?) Food historians suggest it was probably first made in a now forgotten convent or monastery near Palermo during the period of Arab rule of Sicily. We do know that they were originally a sweet prepared during Carnevale. There are even stories that suggest—in keeping with the practical jokes and festive spirit of Carnevale—a cannolo would sometimes be stuffed with something unpleasant inside and covered with cream on both ends as normal. The unsuspecting victim would bite into the scrumptious looking cannolo to find the surprise inside!

Whatever the true story may be, cannoli have long since lost their connection to Carnevale, and can now be enjoyed throughout the year. This is, of course, good news for cannoli lovers traveling to Sicily and Italy! You will find them in a variety of sizes, from the tiny cannulicchi or cannolicchi (no bigger than a finger) to cannoli of gigantic proportions made near Piana degli Albanesi near Palermo. Every year this town hosts the Sagra del Cannolo (Festival of the Cannolo) from January to February, which carries on the tradition of celebrating Carnevale with cannoli. What a perfect opportunity to indulge in true cannoli siciliani!

Although most people around the world—particularly in America—call a single tube “a cannoli,” only one of these treats is actually called a cannolo – a name that refers to the tube shape of the pastry. The linguistic corruption is easy to justify, though. After all, who can just eat only one!?!

Traveling around Sicily you’ll find countless different regional and family variations on the classic cannoli filling. Some bakers will add little bits of chocolate or different types of candied fruits. Sometimes you’ll find bright red candied cherries decorating each end, which is a typical decoration in Palermo, while in the eastern part of the island you might find the bright green of chopped pistachios from the town of Bronte sprinkled on each end. Cannoli shells are even sometimes dipped in chocolate before being filled. In Sicily the filling is flavored with vanilla extract or sometimes with Marsala wine, and the final touch is the dusting of powdered sugar.

Cannoli are one of the staples of the Italian-American household and, like so many things, everyone remembers Grandma’s cannoli as the best. The dessert has even more variations in America, although the cannoli you’ll find in most Italian-American bakeries are still commonly filled with the traditional sweetened ricotta. Sometimes you’ll also find mascarpone cheese or a sweet custard in place of the ricotta, though. Vanilla is the most common flavoring, but it’s still possible to track down a good cannolo made with a touch of Marsala at a traditional bakery. Just as in Sicily, you’ll find candied cherries and citrus peel, pistachios and chocolate pieces decorating the tops of the cannoli.

Now that I’ve got you heading to the nearest pasticceria or bakery, don’t forget to stop back by The italyMONDO! Blog next Friday as we travel from Sicily up the coast of Italy to Naples where we’ll discover the traditional Babà Napoletano.

Buon appetito!

Would you like to taste true Sicilian cannoli and find your family in Sicily? Contact us and find out how italyMONDO! can help you discover your roots in Italy and create a vacation of a lifetime for you and your family!

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Photo Copyright of “Azoome™” at Flickr

Before we begin our upcoming region-by-region Wednesday Wine tour of Italy, I would like to spend a few minutes to talk about the complex quality control certifications that regulate Italian wines

As with its other European Union partners, Italy operates a quality control system to protect both the reputation and integrity of certain types of wine as well as the livelihood of the many local producers that make them. As a result, there are a number of stamps on labels that give the prospective purchaser an indication of what can reasonably be expected from the contents within.

Generally speaking Italian wines can be divided into two main categories: table wines and “High Street” wines. Contrary to the United States, where the term “table wine” is often used as a definition to differentiate standard wine from stronger (for example, higher alcohol content) fortified wine or sparkling wine, in the European Union it is meant to designate the lowest quality level of wine produced – one that qualifies for neither an appellation (i.e. designation or title) nor even a broad regional designation.

The Italian vini da tavola (table wines) are generally less expensive red or white wines that are produced to be consumed in the easy-going atmosphere of an Italian-style family meal. They are sometimes sold in larger jug-like bottles and are a mainstay of an Italian dinner table. Table wines are often fruit-forward wines, which can lean a touch on the sweeter side. Some are sparkling, but most are light/medium bodied and are very compatible for first time wine drinkers. The Lazio region’s wine production focuses mainly on this type of informal low-cost table wine. The Frascati and Castelli vineyard areas, for example, represent the highest local output.

As with its other European Union partners, Italy operates a quality control system to protect both the reputation and integrity of certain types of wine as well as the livelihood of the many local producers that make them.

In contradiction to the presumed order however, exceptional table wines are an uncommon but important fact in Europe. Quite ambitious wines may be classified as mere “table wine” if they are made from non-traditional grapes or with unconventional wine making processes. Even wines made with every measure of care (such as low vine yields or hand harvesting) and grown on sites otherwise entitled to a prestigious appellation may be denied status.

The best-known examples are the wines called Supertuscans, which are made either with more than allowed quantities of international varieties (grapes not indigenous to Italy such as Merlot, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon) or without the once mandated inclusion of small proportions of local Cannaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano per the relevant Tuscan designation.

In 1992, Italy created the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT), specifically to permit Supertuscans to leave the “table wine” classification and become quality wine. Still, wherever legitimacy in a given designation is stipulated by something more than a geographic boundary, one may find righteous producers willing to ignore limitations in pursuit of quality.

In short, Italy’s classification system has four classes of wine, with two falling under the European Union regulatory category “Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region” (VQPRD) and two falling under the category of “Table Wine.” The four classes in ascending order are:

Table Wine: Denotes table wine from Italy. It is not always synonymous with other countries’ legal definitions of table wine. The denomination indicates either an inferior quaffing wine, or one that does not follow current wine law. Some high quality wines do however carry this designation.

Vino da Tavola (VdT) Literally “Table Wine,” this designation denotes table wine from Italy. Not always synonymous with other countries’ legal definitions of table wine. VdT indicates either an inferior quaffing wine, or one that does not follow current wine law. Some high quality wines do however carry this designation. Ambitious wines may be classified as mere “table wine” if they are made from non-traditional grapes or with unconventional wine making processes, but can still be complex, delightful wines regardless.

Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) Literally “Typical Geographic Origin,” IGT wines are labeled with the locality of their creation, but do not meet the requirements of the stricter DOC or DOCG designations – generally intended to protect traditional wine formulations such as Chianti or Barolo. In wine terms, it is considered the rough Italian equivalent of the French vin de pays designation. IGT denotes wine from a more specific region within Italy. This designation was created in 1992 for the “new” wines of Italy, those that have broken the strict, old wine laws yet are still wines of great quality. Before the IGT was created, quality Supertuscan wines such as Tignanello and Sassicaia were ironically labeled Vino da Tavola.

VQPRD: (Vino di Qualità Prodotto in Regioni Determinate) Quality Wines Produced in Specified Regions, strict regulatory council-approved wines, made exclusively with local grapes.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) Literally “Controlled Origin Denomination,” the DOC designation refer to zones and regulations which are much more specific than the IGT designation. DOC wines are produced in specific well-defined regions, according to specific rules designed to preserve the traditional wine making procedures of the individual areas. Each region generally has at least one DOC wine, for example, Puglia has 25 DOC wines while its neighbor Bascilicata has only one. A given DOC defines the permissible grape or grape varieties as well as numerous details about the grape growing and wine making procedures. About one fifth of Italian wine is classified DOC or better.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) This top-of-the-line official status literally translates to “Controlled and Guaranteed Origin Denomination.” The DOCG designation is much like its DOC counterpart, but more stringent. DOCG wines, in fact, must be created under even stricter standards and legal requirements as well as pass a blind test evaluation by a tasting committee before they can be bottled. For example, the rules for making Barolo (in photo) differ noticeably from those for making Chianti Classico. Allowable yields are generally lower, and the permitted grapes are also more specifically defined. In addition, the winery can declare the vineyard that the grapes came from, but cannot name the wine after a grape type, because doing so would cause confusion.

Next week’s Wednesday Wine appointment will take us on a tour of the vineyards of Southern Italy, where we will be exploring the wonderful wines of Il Mezzogiorno. Until then– salute!

Would you like to taste some authentic IGT, DOC and DOCG wines in Italy and even have the chance to uncover your family still living there in the process? Contact us and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian family tree or create a vacation of a lifetime for you and your family!

“Abruzzo is a fascinating region. It lies 70 miles east of Rome, between the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea. This mountainous region of Italy, covering 700,000 squared miles, has a population of 1.3 million. An astounding variety of flavors and aromas, with the products of the unspoiled mountainous areas, added to the rural tradition of its hilly pastures and the abundance of freshly caught fish along its sandy coastlines make Abruzzo a rich and generous land.”

…at least that’s what the guidebook says.

But I learned to love Abruzzo the hard way. Culture shock hits when you first arrive and are met by the austere landscapes, the severe mountain backdrops that circle valley towns, and when the proud Abruzzesi first lay eyes on you. In the Abruzzo, nature is as untamed as its tradition is undiluted. Only here, and in the snow-white marble peaks of Tuscany, do the Apennine massifs assume truly alpine proportions. It is a land of silent valleys, vast upland plateaus and forest-cloaked mountains. Wolves, wild boars and bears still roam. You feel the rugged terrain will be inhospitable. You fear the unforgiving climate. You can’t see warmth beyond that first inquisitive stare. And you are virtually cut off from the rest of Italy, away from loved ones, frozen in time and scared of the constant aftershocks.

And then suddenly it happens.

You wake one crisp morning, and a bird chirps its buon giorno!, and your gaze loses itself in the veil of fog shrouding the valley below. You are won over by Abruzzo’s stark beauty and the simplicity of life. The friendly smile of the Signora making breakfast downstairs and inviting you to join her for coffee adds to the infatuation. The gentleman tipping his hat as you stroll by on your way to work. The total absence of traffic on the cobblestone alleys, the adopted stray dog that comes up to you like an old pet, the sound of my footsteps as I climb millions of stone steps to meet friends for dinner in some exquisite tavern. Not to mention the bold and towering line of jagged peaks with snow-capped tips and the starry skies above, the winding country roads and steep hills, which close in to form sheer-sided gorges; the explosion of autumnal colors – Abruzzo’s auburn Fall welcome; and the magical silence that each night would ring loud in my ears as I closed my eyes under the covers. As I think back to Castel del Monte, as well as Sulmona, Cocullo, Calascio and Santo Stefano di Sessanio, I clearly recall images of tendrils of smoke curling up from the houses. Arches and narrow flights of steps leading to welcoming doorways high up, and odd-shaped courtyards squeezed in small tan-colored stone churches.

You wake one crisp morning, and a bird chirps its buon giorno!, and your gaze loses itself in the veil of fog shrouding the valley below. You are won over by Abruzzo’s stark beauty and the simplicity of life.

Above all I associate my personal Abruzzo experience with an aroma. I cannot forget the evocative smell of burning wood that permeates the cold mountain air. Some of my clothes, yet to be unpacked from working 9 weeks on location, still smell of log-fire. I don’t think I will wash them out just yet. I like to let the olfactory memory of those peaceful days in the quiet of my own private Abruzzo paradise linger on my jumper, as I slip it on and reminisce of fireplaces reflected in ruby glasses of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

I’m back on board the Wednesday Wine column, and I ask forgiveness for my long silence. The assignment in Abruzzo–my new love–has absorbed far more time and energy than I had predicted, but I am once again Roman now. And I am eager to continue sharing my wine stories and knowledge with you.

Ciao!

Would you like to find your relatives that are still living in the Abruzzo and throughout Italy? Contact us today and found out how italyMONDO! can help connect you with your Italian roots!

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