The Wines of Calabria
For this week’s installment of Wednesday Wines, I will be taking all of my fellow wine-lovers to mainland Italy on a guided tour of Calabria’s fruitful vine lands and their interesting winery products.
Calabria, which forms the toe of the Italian boot-shaped peninsula, is a predominately mountainous region with marked variations in climate between the sunny coastal hills along the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas, and the chilly heights of the Sila, Pollino and Aspromonte massifs.
In ancient times, Calabria (and much of its neighboring areas) was referred to as Oenotria – “the land of wine.” The vino produced in Calabria at the time not only had a remarkable importance in the area’s economy, but it was also already renowned for its superb quality. The historic distinctive qualities of Calabrian wine were its vigor, strength, and its intense aroma, capable—it is said—of being able to resuscitate the dead. It’s not surprising that the area was studded with temples erected in honor of the god Bacchus, the Roman name for Dionysus – the god of wine!
Calabrian wines pair beautifully with the local cuisine, a balance between meat-based dishes (pork, lamb, goat), vegetables (especially eggplant), and fish. In contrast to most other Italian regions, Calabrians have traditionally placed an emphasis on the preservation of their food, in part because of the climate and potential crop failures. The result is the tradition of packing vegetables and meats in olive oil, making sausages (Soppressata and ’Nduja, to mention a few), and—along the coast—curing fish, especially swordfish, sardines and baccalà (cod). All these delicious local foods greatly benefit from Calabria’s local vintages. Lets explore them.
Legend has it that in the early Olympics, the Calabrian athletes would toast with Cirò, Calabria’s most renowned wine, and offer it to the Gods to celebrate their victory.
Notable Calabrian wines include Melissa that comes in white and red varieties and the Greco di Bianco, an amber-colored sweet dessert wine produced around the town of Bianco. Donnici, Pollino, Lamezia, Savuto and Bivongi shine as other regional favorites, but Calabria’s best-known wine is Cirò, which grows in low hills along the Ionian coast, between the ancient Greek cities of Sybaris and Kroton – modern-day Sibari and Crotone. Cirò is the major DOC produced in Calabria both for quantity and quality. The classic Cirò is red, which in the reserve version has the capacity to age beyond a decade in certain vintages. Spicy, dried fruit characteristics are evident in the bouquet that follows through the finish. There is also a Cirò rosato (rosé) and a bianco made from Greco grapes that can both show impressive youthful freshness.
Legend has it that in the early Olympics, the Calabrian athletes would toast with Cirò and offer it to the Gods to celebrate their victory. In observance of that ancient tradition, all the athletes who participated in the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico City were offered Cirò wine with their meals during the period of the competition.
Next week we will be exploring the wines of Basilicata, also known as the Lucania. This is an often unjustly neglected region of parched hills and desolate mountains that can be very cold for a southern Italian region. But the cool upland climate has its advantages for viticulture, evident in wines that can show enviable aromas and flavors.
Salute!
Would you like to discover the untouched wonders of Calabria and even find your relatives still living in Italy as well? Contact us today and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian (and Calabrese!) family tree and create a vacation of a lifetime with a custom Heritage Tour or Excursion for you and your family!
Photo Courtesy of “pynomoscato” at Flickr



