The Wines of Sardegna
For this week’s segment of Wednesday Wines we will be tasting wines hailing from the gorgeous island of Sardegna (Sardinia). Noble reds and whites, as well as rosés and sweet dessert wines, are the pride of the “Emerald Isle.”
The wine routes of this island lead to fantastic landscapes where viticulture has been in existence since pre-Roman times, a tradition that began with the people of the nuraghi and that is still continued after three millennia. A wine tour Sardegna takes the visitor on a fantastic journey of pleasures of the senses with the perfumes, flavors and the vibrant colors of the island.
Among the island’s most important red varieties are Cannonau, a relative of the Spanish Granacha, and Monica, which is also of Spanish origin. There is a bit of controversy these days about the origins of Cannonau, however. It was once thought as common knowledge that the Spanish brought it to Sardegna, but now experts are more prone to say the grape is indigenous to the island, and that the Spanish took it back with them after they invaded Sardegna in the 13th century.
Vineyards in the rugged eastern coastal range around Nuoro are noted for their rich and versatile Cannonau di Sardegna, which pairs beautifully with local meat dishes like Porceddu, a charcoal grilled piglet, as well as various sausage or lamb recipes. Mature Cannonau is opaque, very dark red–almost black–and exhibits concentrated ripe red forest fruits, tobacco, spices, and cigar box on the nose.
Vermentino is the most famous wine made from the late ripening white Vermentino grape, and is responsible for the prestigious DOCG Vermentino di Gallura and Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, which are produced in the province of Olbia in the north end of the island. Vermentino grapes are thought to be related to the Malvasia variety and to have been brought to Italy in the 15th century during the period of Spanish domination. Vermentino—crisp, acidic grapes with herbal hints—are often grown on slopes facing the sea where they can benefit from the additional reflected light and iodine-rich air.
With its delicate aromas of fruit and hint of almonds in the finish, Vermentino is a wine to be enjoyed young. In addition to being the perfect complement to all kinds of seafood recipes—from simple steamed shrimp to elaborate seafood platters with vegetables and deep-sea grouper or swordfish—this wine is delicious as an exciting aperitivo for all occasions.
In Gallura, the Moscato and Nebbiolo grapes thrive as well. The spumante-dolce version of the Moscato di Tempio DOC is among the most delicate and appreciated dessert wines produced on the island, and the red Nebbiolo—known as Nebbiolo di Luras—has recently met with a widespread success among wine lovers.
Semidano is a white table wine, ideal with primi piatti (first courses), fish soups, and lean meat ragùs. It also performs nicely as a sparkling wine. Semidano wine pairs nicely with spicy foods, poultry and pork – and is perfect with lobster and pasta with clams.
Nuragus di Cagliari DOC is an ancient Phoenician varietal found in southern Sardegna. It yields light and tart wines that are enjoyed as an apertivo, or with light seafood meals on the beach.
The Tuscan Vernaccia vine has many clone varieties, but is unrelated to some Italian vines known by the same name, such as the Sardinian varieties used in Vernaccia di Oristano. This is an ancient, aging, golden yellow white wine that can be compared to the best Jerez wines and Sherries. It is a perfect meditation/conversation wine that can be paired with the most refined of the traditional island pastries.
A rising star among Sardinian wines is Carignano del Sulcis, a red or rosé from the southwest that was probably imported in ancient times by the French. It is a precious wine that confirms the connection between the ancient and the modern achieved by Sardinian oenology. It is excellent with hearty pastas and soups, roasted meat, and aged cheese. Another interesting wine among the reds is the moderately sweet Girò di Cagliari, and the red and rosé Mandrolisai DOC made in the area around the center of Sorgono.
Stay tuned for next week’s appointment with the vigorous wines of Calabria, the long and narrow peninsula that forms the toe of of Italy’s “Boot.” In ancient times Calabria was called Oenotria, which translates from Latin to “Land of Wine” – making it fitting to be our first stop mainland before we travel up the Italian coast to explore each region’s wines one-by-one!
Salute!
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Photo Courtesy of “Topyti” at Flickr


