Three days a year, the people of Naples anxiously hold their breath. Eyes fixed on the city’s Duomo—with prayers being recited and news cameras rolling—there is one question on everyone’s mind. Will the miracle of San Gennaro occur once again?

Among the most venerated relics held in the Duomo of Naples are two glass vials of the dried, century-old blood of San Gennaro, a martyr saint from the 3rd century who was born in southern Italy. Since 1389, their contents are said to liquefy each year – an occurrence that has yet to be explained. This miracle takes place three times a year; on the first Saturday of May to celebrate the anniversary of the translation of the relics of San Gennaro in the 15th century to their new home in the Duomo of Naples, on the 19th of September on the anniversary of the Saint’s death and his actual feast day, and on December 16th, the anniversary of a devastating eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 1631 – a disaster from which many Neapolitans believe their beloved city was spared, thanks to the intervention of their santo patrono.

For Neapolitans, the miracle of San Gennaro’s blood is an oracle for the city. When it occurs, all will be fine. The absence of the miracle, however, does not bode well for the city. In fact, terrible events have taken place in Naples and its surrounding area when the blood failed to liquefy in the past. These beliefs have been reinforced in recent memory by the 1944 eruption of Mt. Vesuvius and the 1980 earthquake that devastated much of southern Italy, killing nearly 3,000 people. In the case of both years, il sangue di San Gennaro remained stubbornly solid.

But who was this saint – and why is he considered the protector of Naples? While little is certain about the life of the santo, later Christian sources and legends that developed after his death tell us he was born either in Naples or nearby Benevento, and later became the bishop of Naples. However, in 305 during the Roman persecutions of the Christians, San Gennaro was condemned to death. He was sent to be torn to pieces by lions, but when the beasts miraculously spared him, the Romans threw him into a flaming furnace—only for him to exit unscathed once again. He was then successfully beheaded at the Solfatara crater near Pozzuoli. (Leading historians to believe that even the Romans thought the third time was a charm!) Over the centuries devotion for San Gennaro grew—spreading far beyond just the citizens of the Napule’.

While the exact details on the life of San Gennaro are the subject of legends, what is certain is that for many Neapolitans the prosperity and well being of their city is intimately connected to this saint and the thrice-yearly miracle with his blood. Each year for centuries, the ceremony has inspired both awe and disbelief—and still today seeing the miracle is a powerful experience. On Saturday, September 19th, an enormous crowd will fill the Duomo and surrounding streets hoping to catch a glimpse. The event is accompanied by processions and celebrations, including a jovial atmosphere after the miracle takes place, making it the perfect opportunity to experience the Neapolitan’s exuberant talent for festivities.

For Neapolitans, the miracle of San Gennaro’s blood is an oracle for the city. When it occurs, all will be fine. The absence of the miracle, however, does not bode well for the city.

The name of San Gennaro (”Saint Januarius” in English, but it just sounds better in Italian!) is just as familiar to many Italian Americans as it is to any Neapolitan. In America, his feast as we know it today was first celebrated in New York City on September 19, 1926. For the Italian population in Little Italy, many of whom came from the Naples area, it was only natural to celebrate their native patrono with processions and celebrations brought with them from the “Old Country.” Over the years, this developed into the annual San Gennaro Festival – today a popular event for Italians and non-Italians alike, with festivities reminiscent of the events taking place on the same day across the Atlantic.

Sitting in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius, with the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum serving as constant reminders of the devastating force of the volcano, it is no surprise that the devotion and faith in the protective powers of San Gennaro have remained so strong for the city of Naples over the centuries. Whether it’s with faith, superstition – or, as it often the case with Italians, a healthy dose of both – the entire city of Naples anxiously awaits Saturday’s upcoming miracle – including everyone here at italyMONDO! who are working from the Italian office - just five miles away from the volcano’s crater!

One of the gems of southern Italy’s Campania region, the alluring beauty of the Amalfi Coast attracts countless visitors every year. It is no surprise that its picturesque villages, rocky beaches and impossibly narrow roads are packed during these warm summer months. For travelers in search of the authentic sights, sounds and flavors of the Amalfi Coast, the summer crowds can be a turn off at first sight. In truth, the undiscovered charms of the Amalfi Coast are waiting around every twist and turn of this rocky coastline, and with a few tips you can experience it at its very best.

The beautiful towns of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello – the top tourist destinations on the Amalfi Coast – will most likely be a part of your itinerary. But if the crowds in the piazza seem too much at times, look for a quiet street and head in that direction. The best way to see any Italian city is by walking, and along the Amalfi Coast this is an especially rewarding experience. It gives you the time to see the authentic way of life, feel the ancient cobblestones underfoot, and smell the tantalizing aromas wafting out of open windows. Of course, exploring the paesi built along the steep cliffs on the Amalfi Coast always involves steps - sometimes a lot of them. Bring comfortable shoes for the days you plan to spend walking, and your feet will thank you by the end of the day. Yet you will be well rewarded during your walks with unexpected courtyards, garden terraces, laundry-filled balconies, and a glimpse of daily life as it is lived on the Amalfi Coast.

Long before a road was built, the towns along the Amalfi Coast were connected only by a series of footpaths. Today a hike along these well-maintained pathways offers breathtaking viste and a chance to see the peaceful and rural face of the Costiera Amalfitana. Heading up or down one of these pathways, you will soon be surrounded by terraces carved out of the mountainsides, carefully planted with lemon groves, grape vines, and olive and fig trees. Once outside of the larger towns, the quiet grandeur of the mountain landscape reaching to the sea is breathtaking. The pathways lead in and out of little frazioni, or hamlets, where you can rest and experience a quiet piece of everyday life on the Amalfi Coast.

While many of the beaches are crowded this time of year, you don’t have to go far to find some of the secluded charms of the Amalfi Coast. Renting a small boat for the day (services are available in Amalfi, Positano and most other cities along the coast) allows you to explore the rugged cliffs and intensely blue sea. Along the way you can discover little bays and hidden beaches only reachable by boat, not to mention the little islands which speckle the entire coast. The tip of the Amalfi Coast stretching west of Positano is relatively untouched by human hands and tourism. The charming seaside village of Nerano, located near the tip of the Amalfi Coast, makes an excellent stop for lunch.

Once you have explored the winding city streets and admired the breathtaking views from the mountains and the sea, you have experienced firsthand the true beauty of the Amalfi Coast – a beauty that that lures visitors back again and again. Whether you are traveling to the Amalfi Coast or another of Italy’s beautiful destinations, remember that heading off the beaten path often leads to unexpected discoveries, memories of a lifetime, and the chance to experience the authentic and untouched beauty Italy offers.