Just felt like spoiling myself

Photo Copyright of “Azoome™” at Flickr

Before we begin our upcoming region-by-region Wednesday Wines tour of Italy, I would like to spend a few minutes to talk about the complex quality control certifications that regulate Italian wines

As with its other European Union partners, Italy operates a quality control system to protect both the reputation and integrity of certain types of wine as well as the livelihood of the many local producers that make them. As a result, there are a number of stamps on labels that give the prospective purchaser an indication of what can reasonably be expected from the contents within.

Generally speaking Italian wines can be divided into two main categories: table wines and “High Street” wines. Contrary to the United States, where the term “table wine” is often used as a definition to differentiate standard wine from stronger (for example, higher alcohol content) fortified wine or sparkling wine, in the European Union it is meant to designate the lowest quality level of wine produced – one that qualifies for neither an appellation (i.e. designation or title) nor even a broad regional designation.

The Italian vini da tavola (table wines) are generally less expensive red or white wines that are produced to be consumed in the easy-going atmosphere of an Italian-style family meal. They are sometimes sold in larger jug-like bottles and are a mainstay of an Italian dinner table. Table wines are often fruit-forward wines, which can lean a touch on the sweeter side. Some are sparkling, but most are light/medium bodied and are very compatible for first time wine drinkers. The Lazio region’s wine production focuses mainly on this type of informal low-cost table wine. The Frascati and Castelli vineyard areas, for example, represent the highest local output.

As with its other European Union partners, Italy operates a quality control system to protect both the reputation and integrity of certain types of wine as well as the livelihood of the many local producers that make them.

In contradiction to the presumed order however, exceptional table wines are an uncommon but important fact in Europe. Quite ambitious wines may be classified as mere “table wine” if they are made from non-traditional grapes or with unconventional wine making processes. Even wines made with every measure of care (such as low vine yields or hand harvesting) and grown on sites otherwise entitled to a prestigious appellation may be denied status.

The best-known examples are the wines called Supertuscans, which are made either with more than allowed quantities of international varieties (grapes not indigenous to Italy such as Merlot, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon) or without the once mandated inclusion of small proportions of local Cannaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano per the relevant Tuscan designation.

In 1992, Italy created the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT), specifically to permit Supertuscans to leave the “table wine” classification and become quality wine. Still, wherever legitimacy in a given designation is stipulated by something more than a geographic boundary, one may find righteous producers willing to ignore limitations in pursuit of quality.

In short, Italy’s classification system has four classes of wine, with two falling under the European Union regulatory category “Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region” (VQPRD) and two falling under the category of “Table Wine.” The four classes in ascending order are:

Table Wine: Denotes table wine from Italy. It is not always synonymous with other countries’ legal definitions of table wine. The denomination indicates either an inferior quaffing wine, or one that does not follow current wine law. Some high quality wines do however carry this designation.

Vino da Tavola (VdT) Literally “Table Wine,” this designation denotes table wine from Italy. Not always synonymous with other countries’ legal definitions of table wine. VdT indicates either an inferior quaffing wine, or one that does not follow current wine law. Some high quality wines do however carry this designation. Ambitious wines may be classified as mere “table wine” if they are made from non-traditional grapes or with unconventional wine making processes, but can still be complex, delightful wines regardless.

Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) Literally “Typical Geographic Origin,” IGT wines are labeled with the locality of their creation, but do not meet the requirements of the stricter DOC or DOCG designations – generally intended to protect traditional wine formulations such as Chianti or Barolo. In wine terms, it is considered the rough Italian equivalent of the French vin de pays designation. IGT denotes wine from a more specific region within Italy. This designation was created in 1992 for the “new” wines of Italy, those that have broken the strict, old wine laws yet are still wines of great quality. Before the IGT was created, quality Supertuscan wines such as Tignanello and Sassicaia were ironically labeled Vino da Tavola.

VQPRD: (Vino di Qualità Prodotto in Regioni Determinate) Quality Wines Produced in Specified Regions, strict regulatory council-approved wines, made exclusively with local grapes.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) Literally “Controlled Origin Denomination,” the DOC designation refer to zones and regulations which are much more specific than the IGT designation. DOC wines are produced in specific well-defined regions, according to specific rules designed to preserve the traditional wine making procedures of the individual areas. Each region generally has at least one DOC wine, for example, Puglia has 25 DOC wines while its neighbor Bascilicata has only one. A given DOC defines the permissible grape or grape varieties as well as numerous details about the grape growing and wine making procedures. About one fifth of Italian wine is classified DOC or better.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) This top-of-the-line official status literally translates to “Controlled and Guaranteed Origin Denomination.” The DOCG designation is much like its DOC counterpart, but more stringent. DOCG wines, in fact, must be created under even stricter standards and legal requirements as well as pass a blind test evaluation by a tasting committee before they can be bottled. For example, the rules for making Barolo (in photo) differ noticeably from those for making Chianti Classico. Allowable yields are generally lower, and the permitted grapes are also more specifically defined. In addition, the winery can declare the vineyard that the grapes came from, but cannot name the wine after a grape type, because doing so would cause confusion.

Next week’s Wednesday Wines appointment will take us on a tour of the vineyards of Southern Italy, where we will be exploring the wonderful wines of Il Mezzogiorno. Until then– salute!

Would you like to taste some authentic IGT, DOC and DOCG wines in Italy and even have the chance to uncover your family still living there in the process? Contact us and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian family tree or create a vacation of a lifetime for you and your family!