The Wines of Puglia
I’d like to welcome readers to our newest installment of Wednesday Wines! This week we will be enjoying the wines of Puglia, also known as Apulia. This is the region that makes up the southeast corner of Italy, including the “heel” of the boot, and—like its other southern counterparts—is yet another Italian wine mecca.
Historically, this gorgeous region of southern Italy has been a very large producer of wine – often leading Italy in terms of quantity alone. But the wines produced here were rugged, rough and deeply colored – not of attributes of a prestigious wine by any means. Much of the production went into cheaper jug wines or was blended into unbranded wines. As a result, these wines were rarely tasted outside the homeland. Times are changing, however, and today Pugliese producers seem to have developed the goal of making well-crafted wines that express a unique sense of place. There is a feeling of regional pride in what the vintners of Puglia have been able to accomplish in a relatively short time. Let’s explore…
Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Malvasia Nera—all red—are the three main grapes grown in Puglia. Also noteworthy is a historic, sweet, high-alcohol dessert wine, made with Aleatico grapes, called Aleatico di Puglia. The wines of Puglia carry the following place designations: Salento, Daunia, Tarantino, and Valle d’Itria. Salento wines in particular, are dark, robust, and full-bodied with ripe fruit-forward flavors and high alcohol content. The Salento peninsula is arid and flat with palm trees and cactus plants, chaffed by coastal winds. The inhospitable soil combined with the cool evening breezes from the Adriatic Sea are perfect for the production of complex red wines.
Negroamaro, whose name literally means “black and bitter,” is a widely planted grape, and is the backbone of the acclaimed inky Salice Salentino: spicy, toasty, and full of dark red fruits. The grape is thick skinned and has a deep black and purple coloring although the wines tend to be deeply colored with just a hint of ruby near the rim. Wines made from Negroamaro tend to be very rustic in character, combining perfume with an earthy bitterness. The vine is vigorous and high yielding with a distinct preference for limey soils, and well suited to Puglia’s hot summers.
Much of Puglia’s wine production had previously gone into cheaper jug wines or was blended into unbranded wines. Times are changing, however, and today Pugliese producers seem to have developed the goal of making well-crafted wines that express a unique sense of place.
Primitivo di Manduria is another excellent Pugliese red wine. It was recently discovered by an American scholar that, somewhat curiously, Primitivo di Manduria shares the same DNA as the American Zinfandel – the well-appreciated and prize-winning California grape. Deep ruby purple, and like other wines from this region, Primitivo is big and peppery with a cinnamon bouquet and rich, abundantly endowed lingering flavors.
Castel del Monte was first produced in Puglia in the 13th century. This wine’s namesake, a gorgeous medieval castle built by Fredrick II, still stands dominating endless vineyards and olive groves of immense beauty. Castel del Monte can be a blended red, white, or rosé wine. With its ruby red color turning deep orange with age, rosso is a dry wine made from mostly Uva di Troila or Aglianico grapes. Puglia also makes light white wines with the Bombino Bianco, Verdeca and Pampanuto, and some barrel fermented Chardonnays.
Puglia is one of the most fertile regions in all of Italy, on par with the Po Valley. Its wines are luscious, heavy and definitely “food wines.” Typical dishes in Puglia to accompany their local wines include melanzane alla campagnola (“Peasant Eggplant”), the ever-present orecchiette with broccoli, flavored breads, aged ricotta, and the region’s best raw frutta di mare – the coast’s delectable “fruits of the sea.” Don’t be afraid to serve reds with fish, as wine-lovers are starting to break the rules of tradition and are now steadily turning to this unusual flavor combination.
Stay tuned for next week’s chapter of Wednesday Wines, where we will be exploring the abundance and richness of the wines of Italy’s Campania region.
Salute!
Would you like to visit Puglia and even see one of the trulli in which one of your ancestors once lived? Would you like to even have the chance to meet your Pugliesi relatives still living there as well? Contact us today and find out how italyMONDO! can help you research your Italian (and Pugliese!) family tree or create a vacation of a lifetime with a custom Heritage Tour for you and your family!
Photo Courtesy of “jasonrumney.net” at Flickr








