Sweet fruits

As September draws to a close, the late summer sun and cool evening breeze are pleasant reminders that, throughout Italy, a change of season is upon us. L’autunno is arriving, and with it comes more than just a breath of fresh air to savor. While out exploring Italy’s markets this time of year, with stalls overflowing with fresh autumn fruits and vegetables, you might hear the word “settembrini” tossed about by vendors and locals alike.

The word settembrino (plural settembrini) is an adjective meaning “of (or from) September.” A word sadly lacking in English, it can be loosely translated as “Septemberish”—but it just sounds better in Italiano! For Italian Americans in Upstate New York, think crisp apples freshly picked from an orchard and you’ve got the idea. While the cool evening breeze and locally grown mele (apples) and pere (pears) can all be described as settembrini, there is one type of fresh fruit so sweet, so fine, that the word often refers only to them. These are the late maturing variety of white fichi, or figs, that appear in markets across Italy during the month of September. One of the highlights of autunno, these tree-ripened figs harvested in September are one of the sweetest treats of living or traveling in Italy in September.

How do you pick the best fichi settembrini? Figs are highly perishable and do not ripen after picking, so it’s important to select the best fruits available from local vendors. Look for figs that are plump and yield slightly to the touch without being mushy. Small cracks in the skin are fine, and bent stems are actually a good sign. As with all fruit, the scent is important as well. Fresh figs should have a light, sweet scent, and avoid buying any that have begun to smell slightly sour. The distinctive trait of settembrini is their smaller size, so when selecting them remember that bigger is not always better! Because they must be consumed quickly after being harvested, plan to eat fresh figs within a day or two after buying them. (If you can wait that long!) In Italy, the best place to find fresh figs is at the local farmers’ market, a truly pleasurable spot to visit during the harvest season. Or, better yet, since fig trees grow spontaneously across Italy – along the side of the road or out of rocky walls—why not stop and pick a few fresh figs for a quick roadside spuntino?

Italians have been eating figs for centuries. The trees grow well in the Mediterranean climate, with the strong sun in southern Italy producing exceptionally rich and luscious fruits. Intensely sweet, settembrini are delicious on their own and make a delightful desert in themselves. However, Italians have made an art form of combining figs in a multitude of mouthwatering combinations as well. A classic Italian combination pairs these fruits with prosciutto as an antipasto, the sweet and savory flavors blending masterfully into one divine gastronomic experience. In addition to countless dolce recipes, during the harvest season fichi also make an appearance in primi and secondi. Looking for a distinctly September dish while traveling in Italy? Try a pizza bianca with prosciutto and ripe settembrini figs for an unforgettable mix of flavors. Another typical autumn dish is pasta with fichi, cipolla e pancetta, a perfect balance of sweet and rich tastes.

Although September is quickly passing, the warm late summer sun and crisp night air make fall a favorite season for Italians and visitors alike. It’s not too late to experience the delightful treats this time of year brings—especially the fichi settembrini. What better way to enjoy and reflect upon the change of seasons – the cool breeze, the changing light, the warm shades of the countryside—than while enjoying a few (or more!) of these satisfyingly sweet gifts of nature?